There may be no cuisine as varied, complex, and exciting as Thai food. Bold statement I know. Sure there may be countries like India that use higher numbers of spices in recipes, but when it comes to having a spectrum from light and fresh, to decadent and rich, there’s no cuisine like it.
Sweet, salty, sour, earthy, nutty, spicy, bitter, and even minty expressions burst from colorful salads and curries!
This can be a challenge for many wines to handle, and yes, it may be easier to grab a Singha lager or Belgian Tripel ale to cover the adventure, but for those that want to find remarkable pairings with vino, rest assured there is magic to be made.
The answer to the challenges of complexity come with selecting grapes that resonate with the spices and herbs, while not clobbering their nuances.
Where to start?
My rule is always to start with identifying the spice level of the dish and then to select a semi sweet wine to “handle it.” That rule still applies with Thai food, but it’s important to remember that green vegetables, savory herbs, or coconut sweetness may be present and it’s better to play well with them rather than just “handling them.”
I will support the popular sommelier’s recommendation that off dry Riesling is the best “go to” wine for Thai’s spice and complexity, but we will venture dish by dish to study the nuances and fun that can be had with other grapes too.
Grapes That Love Green
Green vegetables like broccoli, asparagus, and artichoke can be tough to pair and green herbs like mint, cilantro, and basil are straight up trouble for most wines. Luckily there are grapes that love these ingredients.
Sauvignon Blanc is a lean, highly aromatic, and highly acidic grape.
Examples from it’s home turf in France exhibit classic lemon-lime citrus, cat pee (no joke), and grassy, herbaceous notes.
Examples of Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand can exhibit citrus like grapefruit, and melon like guava.
We will keep this grape in mind as we work through the stages of the meal.
For some people Sauvignon Blanc can be too aromatic and grassy. A wonderful alternative is Austria’s Gruner Veltliner (pronounced grooner velt leener). One third of all plantings in Austria are Gruner making it their beloved grape. Gruner brings a zippy lime blast with a slight spritz making it fun and “crunchy.” This grape goes in our arsenal for multiple dishes to come!
Summer Rolls
Right out of the gate, a meal can start with a colorful medley of veggies and mint wrapped in rice.
This is the perfect opportunity to pick Gruner to pair with the greens and herbs. Sauvignon Blanc is too big for this light starter.
Another option is a fun Rose or Rosada (Spanish Rose). The light strawberry notes are a nice compliment to the rolls.
If the rolls happen to be fried (more salty and oily), bring on the bubbles!
Wines For Summer Rolls
- Franz Etz Gruner Veltliner (Austria) $13
- Muga Rosada (Spain) $15
- Mercat Brut Rosada Cava (Spain) $15
Tom Kha Kai Soup
This spicy and sour soup is teaming with ingredients like coconut milk, lemon grass, kaffir lime leaves, mushrooms and chicken. It’s troublesome for most wine but easily enjoyed with Gruner. Gruner brings the lemon-lime to resonate and light spritz to cut the coconut milk.
If it’s really kicking with spice try an off dry (semi sweet) Riesling or Moscato. Both have cirtus, floral, and sweet notes that pair well without clashing.
Wines For Tom Kha Kai
- Franz Etz Gruner Veltliner (Austria) $13
- Meinklang Gruner Veltliner (Austria) $18
- Charles Smith Kung Fu Girl Riesling (USA) $12
- Saracco Moscato D’Asti (Italy) $13
Thai Larb Salad
A very popular street food from northeaster Thailand, Larb is a meat salad with lime and chili flakes. It can be made with pork or chicken and can vary in spice level.
If it’s mild to moderately spiced, Pinot Grigio or Chenin Blanc are solid choices. Pinot Grigio has a delicate peach and citrus nose with a slightly oily mouthfeel that works well with the spice and fat from pork. Chenin Blanc can be dry or sweet and has a touch of lime and spritz to compliment the appetizer.
If your Larb is crazy spicy, reach for an off dry Riesling, an off dry Chenin Blanc, Moscato D’Asti, or demi sec sparkling wine. These will all act like a spritz of lime and sugar for the palate.
Wines For Larb
- Volpe Pasini Pinot Grigio (Italy) $13
- Graziano Chenin (US) $15
- Ken Forrester Petit Chenin (S. Africa) $13
Spicy Larb
- Saracco Moscato D’ Asti (Italy) $12
- Botani Moscatel (Spain) $18
- Charles Smith Kung Fu Girl Riesling (USA) $12
- Forge Riesling (USA) $22
- Graham Beck Demi-Sec Brut (S. Africa) $17
Thai Fried Rice
This staple dish for sharing can have varied ingredients. The protein and veggies may change, but the salty and oily element remain consistent.
Pinot Grigio with it’s light oily mouthfeel is great with all things fried and rice is no exception.
Once again you can reach for bubbles or sparkling rose to compliment the salt and lift the dish.
Wines For Thai Fried Rice
- Volpe Pasini Pinot Grigio (Italy) $13
- Sciopetto Collio Pinot Grigio (Italy) $22
- Mercat Brut Rosada Cava (Spain) $15
- Domaine Allimant Laugner Cremant Rose (Alsace) $20
Pad Thai
Maybe the most popular dish in Thai cuisine is Pad Thai. Sweet, sticky, nutty, and topped with all forms of protein, this classic noodle dish pairs wonderfully with an off dry Riesling or Gruner.
Both of these wines act as a dash of citrus to heighten the dish and both help to cut the richness of the noodles.
For those who love Sauvignon Blanc this is an opportunity to enjoy a glass. Go with a bottle from New Zealand to find the right balance between acid, fruit, and this dish.
Wines For Pad Thai
- Tora Bay Sauvignon Blanc (NZ) $15
- Franz Etz Gruner Veltliner (Austria) $13
- Trimbach Riesling (Alsace) $17
- Forge Riesling (USA) $22
- Hugel Riesling (Alsace) $24
Pad See Ew
This flat, wide noodled classic hails from China but has become the second most popular noodle dish in Thai cuisine.
This is an opportunity to enjoy light, fruity, and earthy red wines that aren’t very tannic.
Examples are Pinot Noir from New Zealand or Austria, French Gamay, or Italian Chianti (Sangiovese blends). The red fruit will shine while the light tannins from the wine and the fats of the various protein marry.
Wines For Pad See Ew
- Georges Duboeuf Domaine Du Pourpre Moulin A Vent Gamay (France) $18
- Ant Moore Terroir^2 Pinot Noir (NZ) $20
- Martin Wassmer Spatburgunder (Pinot) (Austria) $25
- Bibbiano Chianti Classico (Italy) $28
Thai Curry
There are 3 main Thai curries found globally. The color of each is due to the inherent spices or chilis. Red, green, and yellow. The base for these is almost always coconut milk.
Red Curry/ Kaeng Phet
Dry Red Spur chilis give this spicy curry it’s color. It’s made from curry paste, shrimp paste, kaffir lime peel, cumin, coriander, and peppercorns.
The rich and spicy aspects of this dish will crush most dry wines. Off dry Riesling is the classic call, but many enjoy the wild experience of pairing Gewürztraminer.
Gewurztraminer is a broad shouldered, highly aromatic white wine that exhibits peaches, tropical fruit like lychee and melon, as well as ginger, flowers and sometimes bacon! It tends to be high in alcohol which can act as a solvent to neutralize the capsaicin (chemical in the spice).
Wines For Red Curry
- Charles Smith Kung Fu Girl Riesling (USA) $12
- Forge Riesling (USA) $22
- Trimbach Gewürztraminer (Alsace) $18
- Zind Humbrecht Gewürztraminer (Alsace) $22
- Domaine Schlumberger Gewürztraminer (Alsace) $33
Green Curry/ Kaeng Khiao Wan
Thai green curry is traditionally made with coconut milk, green curry paste, palm sugar, fish sauce, kaffir lime leaves, and Thai basil. The curry paste itself has coriander, cumin, turmeric, and the green chili.
It’s a time for all things green! Gruner Veltliner, Sauvignon Blanc, and Gewürztraminer can all resonate with this dish. The Gruner and Sauv Blanc are both more lean to cut the coconut milk, while the Gewürztraminer can handle the curry if it gets crazy spicy.
Wines For Green Curry
- Tora Bay Sauvignon Blanc (NZ) $13
- Meinklang Gruner Veltliner (Austria) $18
- Zind Humbrecht Gewürztraminer (Alsace) $2
Yellow Curry/ Kaeng Kari
Thai yellow curry is very different than the red and green curries. It’s mild and doesn’t have a chili paste base. Instead it has an Indian spice base of corriander, cumin, fenugreek, blay leaf, ginger, and turmeric.
The British Navy is said to have connected the spices from India to Thailand where coconut milk was added to make this Thai staple.
Light red wines like Frappato and Grenache really show their pretty red fruit when paired with this earthy and slightly sweet curry.
Wines For Yellow Curry
- Terre di Giumara Frappato/ Nero Mascalese Blend (Italy) $14
- Alto Moncayo Garnacha Veraton (Spain) $25
From light and fresh, to rich and complex dishes, Thai cuisine covers a full spectrum of moods. Have fun making memories with the new wine ideas at your disposal. Remember that off dry Riesling is your safe bet, but that their are fun wines to play with when you encounter complex combinations! Happy exploring. Cheers!
